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Zaranda: A Culinary Journey Through Las Californias

Zaranda reimagines the cuisine of Las Californias—the historic region once stretching from present-day Northern California to Cabo San Lucas—brought to life in downtown Houston by award-winning Chefs Hugo and Ruben Ortega. The restaurant asks a simple question: What if Alta and Baja California had never been divided? The answer is a cuisine sin fronteras—food without borders—rich in history, culture, and abundance.

Alta California, with its fertile valleys, ranching culture, and vineyards, contributes olives, nuts, delicate lettuces, premium meats, and celebrated wines. Baja California, with its dramatic coastlines and ranch country, offers pristine seafood, rugged landscapes, and centuries-old vineyards. Spanish missionaries once introduced vines, olives, and rice dishes that became “arroces”—paella-like meals layered with seafood, meats, or vegetables—while ranching took hold in Alta with the guidance of Mexican vaqueros, shaping a legacy still visible today. Asian immigrants also left their mark: Chinese farmers transformed Baja’s agriculture, while Japanese communities influenced local fishing, marinades, and sauces that remain integral to the region’s cuisine.

The name Zaranda comes from the traditional wire basket used for zarandeado, a centuries-old technique of grilling fish over an open flame, still beloved across Baja. Fittingly, seafood takes center stage on the menu, from lobster and octopus to clams and sea urchin. The Del Rancho section honors Alta California’s ranching heritage with premium beef and slow-cooked lamb, while the Arroces section highlights the Spanish legacy through rice dishes designed for sharing. Baja street foods—tostadas and tacos—capture the lively hand-held flavors of the coast, while an abundant selection of seasonal vegetables—including the classic Tableside Caesar Salad created in Tijuana—round out the offering, reflecting both the agricultural richness and the everyday vibrancy of the region.

No journey through Las Californias would be complete without celebrating its wines and spirits. Zaranda’s wine program bridges the two Californias, showcasing both Napa and Sonoma’s world-renowned vineyards and while also highlighting wines from Valle de Guadalupe, Mexico’s premier wine region with roots dating back to the 1700s. Curated by Sommelier Elvis Espinoza, the list celebrates the Old World traditions planted by missionaries and settlers while highlighting the innovation and diversity that define the vineyards today.

The bar program, led by Carlos Serrano, draws inspiration from the region’s Spanish, Mexican, and Asian influences. With over 20 years behind the bars of H Town Restaurant Group, Carlos brings both mastery and imagination to Zaranda’s cocktails. Agave spirits remain a central focus, joined by gin, sake, and other unexpected ingredients that speak to the region’s multicultural roots. Drinks are organized by flavor profile rather than spirit, encouraging exploration—from bright, citrus-forward creations that recall Baja’s coastline to deeper, spice-driven cocktails inspired by Alta California’s ranch country. Seasonal fruits, herbs, and botanicals tie each drink back to the land and sea, creating a program that is as innovative as it is grounded in tradition.

Desserts by Executive Pastry Chef Ruben Ortega and Lead Pastry Chef Roxy Puga bring a sweet finale, inspired by the regional bounty of macadamia, dates, black sesame, and tropical fruits. Signature creations include the Erizo del Mar, a chocolate sea urchin filled with hibiscus caramel and mango, and the Dólar de Arena, a delicate white chocolate sand dollar set atop an almond-coconut crumble “sand” with candied nori. These two desserts draw inspiration from the sea, while the broader menu balances rustic flavors with modern artistry for a playful yet elegant close to the meal.

While the food and drinks tell the story of Las Californias, the restaurant’s design captures its spirit. With floor-to-ceiling windows overlooking Discovery Green, light wood finishes, and subtle whale-tail ceiling details, Zaranda evokes the relaxed elegance of California’s coast. Designed by Christina Wilburn of Gin Design Group, the 7,000-square-foot space seats 180 indoors and 50 outdoors with two private dining spaces for 20 and 70 guests.

The Ortegas and their team want Zaranda to be a roadmap to a new world of flavors, visions and history for guests. A culinary journey sin fronteras.